Gerbil Care Guide

Gerbil Care Guide
All advice and information contained in these guides maybe superseded by any contract or agreement you have with The Puppy Place, the breeder of your new Gerbil, or recommendations from your vet.

Although gerbils are very easy to take care of, it's still a good idea to learn a little bit about gerbils before you bring your new pets home. This makes things easier for everyone. You are less stressed, because you know what to expect. Your gerbils are less stressed, because you have their home ready for them. The Gerbil Care Guide is an outline of the basics of choosing a pair of gerbils, setting up your gerbils' home, and caring for your new pets.

Note: it is illegal to own a gerbil in California or Hawaii, because if they escape they can establish wild colonies and damage the ecosystem

Caring for Your Gerbil - Supplies Needed:

Gerbil Care Sheet (pdf)

Supplies Needed

Aquariums are better than cages because cages might have bars that their feet can get caught in and break. A well-ventilated aquarium with a top that seals so your gerbil can’t push up on it and escape is best.
Line the aquarium/cage with shredded paper (newspaper or paper towels) or recycled paper bedding (no shavings of any kind), with a mound in a corner – gerbils love to burrow!
Gerbil/rodent pellets
A wheel that is smooth-sided to prevent its feet or tail from getting caught and broken
A water bottle that attaches to the side of the aquarium
A tip-proof (weighted) bowl for food
A safe wooden chew toy made specifically for gerbils
Exercise ball

Dangerous Foods

Salt
High-sodium food
High-sugar food
High-carbohydrate food
Nicotine
Soil
House plants
Leaves or grass from your yard
Food off your plate
Do not add vitamins to their water
Avoid too much dried fruit (it can lead to intestinal issues)
Too much fruit or vegetables can lead to diarrhea in gerbils (water in, water out…)
Yogurt drops and other advertised “treats” actually aren’t appropriate

Chores:
Daily

Feed your gerbil a pellet diet as directed by the label. Note: a seed and nut diet is not a complete diet; only a pellet diet is complete.
Supplement the diet with fresh vegetables such as leafy greens, lettuce, spinach or carrots (avoid high sugar fruit)
Clean up leftovers before they spoil
Be sure their water bottle is filled with fresh water
Scoop up soiled bedding each day
IMPORTANT NOTE: Gerbils have high metabolisms and can become hypoglycemic if they do not eat every day. If your gerbil appears lethargic or isn’t eating well, go to your veterinarian immediately.

Weekly

Completely clean the aquarium/cage once a week with hot, soapy water.
Yearly
Take your gerbil to your veterinarian at least once a year, though twice a year is preferable because their life spans aren’t very long. Your veterinarian can also cut their nails at that time for you if you aren’t comfortable doing it.

Tip: Let your child know that gerbils may only live for a few years so that they aren’t overly shocked when their pet dies.

Basic Care
Short & sweet... here’s what gerbils need:

Gerbil food & water daily (rough guide: 1/2 tbsp per gerbil per day; there should always be a little food in tank)
Fresh veggies or hay every day or a few times a week. Remove uneaten veggies at next meal.
Clean the water bottle weekly
Clean tank every 2-3 weeks with warm water & a small amount of hand-dishwashing soap; rinse well. If litter gets wet (from leaking water bottle, or gerbils piling litter against it), remove litter and clean tank.
Occasionally or when your gerbils’ fur looks greasy, give them a sand bath. Place a little chinchilla dust or sand in small plastic container and they will roll in it. Remove it when they are bored or begin to chew container.
Keep temperature 65-80°F. Avoid drafts (window, A/C) and direct sun.
Give them something to chew (box, tube) every other day.
Handle them as much as possible - they love attention!
If your gerbil seems lethargic, moves awkwardly, won’t eat, has diarrhea, suddenly becomes nippy, or acts or looks strangely in any way - he or she is sick - see a vet.

The Right Temperature
Gerbils thrive at room temperature, normally whatever is comfortable to humans. Gerbils are prone to overheating, so in a home without air conditioning, at least have fans blowing to circulate the air. If it’s extremely hot, surround the aquarium/cage with ice packs (or purchase a temperature-controlled one).

How to Hold Your Gerbil
It is very important that you never hold your gerbil by its tail, as it will break off. Gerbils can bite, so be careful to not surprise them – approach slowly and let them hear you coming. Cup them in the palm of your hand. The more you hold them, the more comfortable they will be with being held.

*Gerbils aren’t appropriate for small children because they can carry diseases like ringworm and will bite if handled roughly. Be sure to wash your hands after handling.

More Than One Gerbil?
Gerbils are social in the wild. Since it can be dangerous to spay or neuter them because of their small size, select same sex gerbils and purchase them at the same time – introducing a new gerbil to one who has already become accustomed to their home will create problems. Females tend to be less aggressive than males. Note: the more animals that share an aquarium/cage, the more frequently it will need to be cleaned.

Don’t Let a Loose Gerbil Out of Your Sight
Gerbils are fast and small – you don’t want to lose them in your house! Be sure if you remove them from their aquarium/cage that it is in a secure room or an exercise ball and never leave him/her alone.

Finding the Right Veterinarian

A veterinarian that treats “exotic pets” will be more comfortable with gerbils
When you first get your pet, have your parent or guardian take it to a veterinarian for a check-up
Your pet should see a veterinarian at least once a year and when you think it might be sick

Is My Gerbil Sick?

Gerbils have a reputation as low-maintenance pets, and for the most part this is true. Many gerbils will live out their whole lives without needing to see a vet. Gerbils do not require annual exams or shots. Sometimes, however you will see a symptom or a change in your gerbil’s behavior that concerns you. Here are some common gerbil ailments and some home-spun, wives’- tale advice. This advice is no substitute for a vet’s exam! If you cannot help your gerbil with these simple measures, see a vet.

My Gerbil...	It might be...
has diarrhea	unless you have recently given him or her a lot of unusual foods or veggies, diarrhea is a serious symptom which could affect your own health (more...). See the vet. If you cannot see the vet immediately, start emergency ornicycline treatment. You might want to provide a warm corner with a heat lamp or reptile heater for comfort. Heat only one part of the tank so s/he can choose a comfy spot. Wash hands thoroughly after handling the gerbil, its bedding or anything in/around the tank, including the lid. If you have more than one tank, isolate the tank with the sick gerbil from the other tanks, but do not remove his/her cagemates until after you talk with the vet. (They may need treatment too.)
seems to be tilting its head to one side	if you observe this behavior when your gerbil is standing on its hind legs, and if your gerbil is pink-eyed and sways slightly when s/he does this, it is probably okay. Pink-eyed gerbils sometimes display this head-tilt & sway behavior: some say it is a way of them focusing their poorer eyesight. If however this behavior comes on suddenly, is true at all times (not just when standing up prarie-dog style), or seems to also affect the gerbil’s behavior or energy level, or is accompanied by kicking or scratching at an ear, your gerbil could have an ear infection or a middle-ear tumor. See the vet.
is digging madly in the corner	normal. Gerbils do this all the time. Give him or her a tube if the noise bothers you.
is lethargic, sleeps more, isn’t running on the wheel	if your gerbil is getting older (2 years or so), and the change has been gradual, it might just be normal aging. However, a sudden change in behavior is suspect. Watch your gerbil closely for 24 hours and observe what you see. If you keep weight records, weigh your gerbil again. If something has definitely changed, behaviorally, in his/her appearance, or you observe a significant weight gain or loss, see the vet.
has bugs crawling on him!	mites. Bummer. You can choose one of two treatments: do-it-yourself, or get help from the vet. (1) To do it yourself, you'll need to get small animal mite spray from the pet store. Then follow the instructions on the AGS Care Page for Mites. Or, (2) your vet can prescribe Ivermectin, which you will dose orally; it will destroy the mites.
has lost part of his tail! There's blood and bone showing!	your gerbil has “degloved” his tail. Try to judge if your gerbil is in pain. If she is squeaking, hiding, nips you, or has her ears plastered back, she probably is in pain, and you should see the vet for an amputation. It can be expensive, but it will solve the problem right away, and your vet will give her antibiotics. If your gerbil seems completely normal, the wound will eventually heal. The exposed bone will fall off. However, you must keep the wound clean. Wash it and apply antibiotic ointment twice a day. Find a bedding that won't stick to the wound but will be soft. Torn up tissue paper might be best, or shredded brown paper “Eco-Bedding”. Or you can shred paper yourself with a home shredder. Change it frequently to minimize infection, and put your gerbil on a course of emergency ornacycline treatment.
seems to be paralyzed on one side; is dragging around, or can't fully open one eye	a stroke. Gerbils do seem to be prone to this. Sometimes, gerbils will retire to their nest after a stroke for a day or two, then emerge seemingly better. Sometimes the damage is obvious and permanent. In either case, s/he is likely to have another stroke later on. The key now is quality of life. As long as your gerbil can continue to enjoy normal, gerbilly things, like digging, grooming, eating and chewing, then just enjoy your time together. However, over time you may see his or her abilities deteriorate. Don’t wait until your gerbil is curled up unmoving and you are trying to hand-feed it seeds while it bites you. Once your gerbil cannot enjoy life, see the vet for humane euthanasia.
looks thin; her head looks more pointy, and I can feel her backbone	if sudden, if accompanied by diarrhea, or the gerbil’s sides have sunken in suddenly, treat as above under diarrhea (namely, see the vet). If the weight loss has been more gradual, first check your gerbil’s teeth. Gerbils should have two nice, fairly long top teeth and two very short lower teeth. The mouth should be able to close fully. If your gerbil is not chewing cardboard voraciously and not eating well, teeth could be the problem. Try a soft diet for a couple of weeks, then check the teeth again. If they still don't look right... you know, see the vet..

Keep in mind that gerbils, as prey animals, are hardwired by nature to hide their illness from you until they are so sick they cannot mask their symptoms. Therefore, once your gerbil’s behavior or appearance is noticeably different, he or she is quite sick. In these circumstances, time is of the essence. Do not wait to see what happens. Take your gerbil to the vet.

Helpful Resources:

Printable Gerbil Care Guide

Gerbil Care - ASPCA org

More about Gerbils